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A Rainy Day on the Cartecay PDF Print E-mail

I have always wanted to write a trip report. But then I found out I had to go on a river trip to do that. So on one dark and stormy night.... No, that's not it — It was a rainy Sunday morning, June 26, and I headed over to the Cartecay River. There I met five other brave paddlers, all decked out in rain gear, getting ready for a day of fun, hoping that the sun would come out. After brief introductions, our boats and gear were placed on and in the shuttle transport, with everyone seated in the belly of a truck being held together with bumper stickers; hanging on to the straps above our heads, off to the river we went.

To start, for those of you who have not run this river, our transportation was provided by M.O.E. At their putin, the LARGE trees that fell during last summer's storms and blocked the river, have been trimmed so it is passable. Safety gear on, I sat and waited for the group to get into the water and off we went.

This being my first trip on this river, I was watched over by all. Being the only person in a very big open boat with no floatation, (I am going to purchase some), I was guided along by Edward and Dick, our sweep and lead boaters. The light rains soon became heavier as we slowly passed the many private and vacation homes along the banks, sometimes taking shelter under the overhanging branches.

The rhododendron, along with the mountain laurel, were in bloom. Several Cardinals and Brown Thrashers could also be heard as we slowed our paddle to bail the waters that were filling our boats. This was more rain water then river, (Yes, I am going to get a sponge). Past storm waters have left volumes of debris, wood and logs piled at some of the curves.

As we came upon each of the rapids on the river, directions were provided as to the best routes. With the rains continuing, one of the fears was that the river would rise on us. At each rapid we lined up to make the trek, it was decided that I would be last so all could be at the down river side just in case I ran into trouble.

At the Rock Garden, due to an error on my part, I overshot the entrance and could not back paddle, I portaged. So as to not have this happen again, at the next challenge I found an eddy and waited a bit longer and got a go ahead, then lined up and headed off.

There was plenty of time to play. Howard in a tandem white water showed us how to surf, Helene was in charge of throwing him the safety line if he were to swamp, and Edward found every eddy he could as he took the second set of rapids. We scouted, we played, and we got wet from the rains.

The rains let up just in time for lunch as we sat at the Whirlpool contemplating a body surf down. There we watched a pair of rough riders, no safety gear other than a paddle and the boat they floated past on, that made us all wonder, "Are they crazy or stupid?" All in all, it was a fun day. We all made the paddle with no one getting into any trouble.

When we were finally below Blackberry and at the take-out, I took a moment to reflect on the trip. I learned that even though it may be your 20th trip or your 1st down a river, you need to listen to those that are leading you, take their directions seriously and respect others. I challenged myself on that Sunday and I would like to thank those that were along with me that day, Helene and Howard Rogers, Charles Zapf, Dick Hurd (Trip Coordinator) and Edward Stockman for being patient with this cowgirl in the big red boat.

by Shari Heinz
From The Eddy Line, August 2005

 
Three Day Trips in the Okefinokee PDF Print E-mail

No, The Hawk did not misspell the place y'all know as "Okefenokee". He did his homework and discovered that the historically correct spelling is "Okefinokee". The name Okefinokee was derived from the Creek O-ke-fin-ocau and was used beginning with George White's 1849 Statistics of Georgia. In the early 20th Century the United States Geographical Board (part of our government bureaucracy) decreed the spelling would be Okefenokee.

Okefinokee is the largest swamp in North America, occupying about 700 square miles and draining a 1,400 square mile watershed. Okefinokee is clearly visible in satellite imagery because it occupies a high, sandy basin in southern Georgia, which acts as an extensive shallow wetland catch basin. Okefinokee has quite different habitats, which vary from extensive canopied forests (pond cypress, loblolly bay, black gum, and red maple), to sprawling emergent shrub communities (hurrah bush, titi, poorman's soap), to prairies (shallow marshes or wetland meadows with hydrophytic plants), and finally to extensive lakes. These habitats provide homes to beacoup animal species.


You'll immediately see alligators, raccoons, and birds. It takes a bit more work to find otter, mink, beaver, black bear and bobcat. If you're really up for it, see if you can catalog the 14 different species of turtles representing five different families. In summary, Okefinokee is as unique to the world as the Grand Canyon and is a mandatory trip for any paddler.

The Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge encompasses 400,000 acres with 110 miles of canoe trails. Canoe camping provides the ultimate Okefinokee experience and two to five day trips are possible, if you score a permit. Permits can be obtained from the Wildlife Refuge office by calling 912.496.3331 between 07:00 and 10:00, Monday through Friday, only within two months (calendar) of the date your trip begins. This can be difficult. If you call at 06:59 no one will answer and if you call after 07:01 the line will be busy and you should prepare to hit the redial button as rapidly as possible (sometimes for more than an hour). However, this permit system works and if you get one you'll be in complete solitude your entire trip. The Refuge website day trips allow one to observe a greater ecologic variety (much more comfortably) than a canoe camping adventure. Most recently, we went there over Memorial Day, based in Waycross, and took three quite different day trips.

Kingfisher Landing through Carter's Prairie.

For the first day, we decided to explore the northeastern swamp, launching at Kingfisher Landing. Kingfisher is one of three access points to the Refuge, basically consists of a parking lot with a boat ramp, groover, and sign-in log. Use of the refuge requires a park permit. Either buy it at one of the Visitor Centers (west entrance Steven Foster, or the east entrance Suwannee Canal Recreation Area). If you have a Golden Eagle Pass just put it on your dashboard.

The rangers check regularly and will ticket.

Kingfisher Landing was the center of peat-mining operations and a mile-long canal dredged at that time constitutes the first mile or so of trail. You will find the remains of the railroad and old machinery at the end of the parking area off to the left. Be sure to check it out. Two routes (Green and Red Trails) begin at Kingfisher. At the end of the canal the Green Trail goes south and the Red Trail, which we followed for about five miles to Double Lakes, goes north. This is one of the least used areas of the Refuge and we never saw anyone else.

The northeastern swamp is emergent prairie with scattered lakes and hammocks. Vegetation primarily comprises shrubbery and the emergent prairie supports yellow-eyed grasses. For me the most interesting form of life is made up of large stands of water lily and assorted carnivorous hooded pitcher plants and sundew in the numerous lakes and tons of frogs. Numerous hammocks, which I still haven't been able to land on, are heavily wooded with various hardwoods. Finally, in the fall and winter it's a good place for birding. You'll find great egrets, little blue herons, and white ibis.

To get to Kingfisher Landing, take U.S. Highway 1 south from Waycross for about 20 miles to Race Pond. The road to the landing (heading west) is well signed. Another 12 miles or so on Highway 1 will take you to the Suwannee Canal Recreation Area

Steven Foster Landing through Floyd's Prairie.

The second day we put in at Steven Foster State Park (the Refuge's west entrance) and followed the Red Trail north for five or six miles to Floyd's Prairie. This is a much more dark and mysterious part of the park and, reminiscent of Mirkwood Forest, follows the Suwannee River as it meanders through densely wooded forests of bays, maple, and cypress. The river traverses one of the most spectacular stands of mature cypress in the swamp and supports a surfeit of wildlife.

Sure there are turtles, alligators and otters. But there are also more rare species such as the bright yellow protonotaria warbler hanging out by the canal side. This is a very tight paddle, especially in a 22' tandem sea kayak. Unfortunately, it's also the most popular section of the swamp, so it's impossible to avoid people. Be alert. Things can get really interesting when negotiating a four-footwide blind curve simultaneously with a john-boat piloted by a tourist (AKA idiot).

To get to Steven Foster, take U.S. 84 west from Waycross to Homerville. In Homereville, take 441 south to Fargo then 177 up the Suwannee River to the park.

Chesser Island. We didn't have time to paddle the third day, so we took U.S. Highway 1 past Kingfisher down to the Suwannee Canal Recreation Area where we checked out Swamp Island Drive, the Chesser Island Homestead, and the boardwalk. The homestead was built by the Chesser family in 1927 and illustrates how the swampers eked out a living. Sugar cane, cane syrup, and turpentine comprised the primary cash crops. Swampers also farmed, kept livestock, hunted, and fished. The boardwalk winds through about a mile of dense swamp, ends at an observation tower, and provides an opportunity to see things you could not get to from your boat.

How to get there: The drive from Atlanta to Okefinokee takes three or four hours. Just take I-75 south way past Macon to Tifton. At Tifton follow US 82 east towards Waycross. At about this time you have to finalize a pivotal decision concerning your destination. Waycross is my current favorite and we based from there on this trip. It's at the northern tip of the Refuge and has numerous hotels, restaurants, and B&Bs. If you're planning on paddling the eastern section, there are also hotels in Folkston, which is down US 1 from Waycross. If you will be limited to the eastern portion (i.e., Steven Foster) stay on I-75 to Valdosta, then take US 84 to Homerville, which has hotels and B&Bs. To the best of my knowledge, there are no hotels in Fargo (although camping is available). Camping and cabins are also available at Steven Foster State Park (check availability before leaving).

One other important tidbit of advice. We did this trip in late May. The weather was wonderful, not only for paddling but also for yellow tabanids (AKA horseflies). These puppies are not fun (except for entomologists like Will). The optimum time to paddle the swamp is spring and fall. This avoids summer heat/humidity and major insect densities, and the more extreme winter conditions (when many animals and plants are dormant). Actually it's the alligators that are dormant and other critters like otters, wood storks, and ibis are free to play without fear of becoming alligator food. Also almost half of the swamp's rainfall occurs during afternoon thunderstorms June through September.


by William C. Reeves (The Hawk)

From The Eddy Line, August 2003

 
Tellico Weekday Trip PDF Print E-mail

For the month of July, my monthly Ocoee weekday trip was, in a sense, RAINED OUT!! The trip was scheduled for Thursday, July 3, and on July 1 Tropical Depression Bill dropped a goodly amount of rain on the green hills of Tennessee. TVA was spilling at Blue Ridge, and that plus the run-off put the Ocoee at a pretty high level. But more importantly, the run-off brought the Tellico up to a really nice level.

Being a highly flexible trip coordinator, I began thinking of moving the trip to the Tellico. The USGS gauge reading got up to over 5 feet on the night of July 1, and the evening of July 2, it was still at about 3-1/2 feet. I started making phone calls to those who had signed up for the Ocoee trip and polled them on moving the trip to the Tellico. Everyone agreed, although a few were skeptical.

The morning of July 3 found the USGS gauge reading at 2.7, an ideal level for the middle section of the Tellico. It was still 2.6 when we got to the put-in, equating to about 600 cfs. Of the original seven who had signed up for the trip, two had at the last minute opted to go to Little River Canyon in Alabama, leaving five of us meeting for the Tellico trip. Of the five, one (who shall remain unnamed) managed to forget the hatch covers for the Perception saddle in his canoe. Although he chose not to paddle without the hatch covers, he graciously volunteered to do our shuttle, and spent a good part of the day wistfully spectating from the roadway.

So, how often do you get to run the Tellico at 600 cfs on a weekday with a bright, sunny sky, temperatures in the 80s and absolutely no crowds? Actually, several times this year. It's been a really great year for the Tellico so far, better than any I can remember. The four lucky boaters were Priscilla Dixey and Jay Cawley in kayaks, and Michael Houchins and yours truly in open canoes. And shuttle was provided by, well, you know who you are and so do the other trip participants....

We had a very enjoyable run, taking our time, getting in a good bit of surf and play time, and soaking up the gorgeous scenery. There was no carnage, and only a couple of rolls at critical times, including one by yours truly in the open boat. "I've never seen anyone roll one of those!" was Jay's comment afterwards.

We stopped and took the short walk to the beautiful waterfall on the feeder creek on river left below Reeder's Rock. The creek water was very warm, and standing under the falls it was very pleasant, almost like a refreshing, invigorating shower. The view of the river looking back down from the falls on the side creek was almost as breathtaking as the view of the falls itself.

By the end of the day, everyone had unanimously agreed that they were very glad the Ocoee trip had been rained out. Thanks, tropical depression Bill, for pointing us in the right direction!

by Allen Hedden

From The Eddy Line, August 2003

 
Belton Dykes Memorial River Rat Rendezvous Trip Report PDF Print E-mail

By all accounts, the Rendezvous was a great success! 100 paddlers registered for the event and we were able to raise $5000 for Team River Runner (TRR) (www.teamriverrunner.org). Folks came down from as far as Ohio , New York City , North Carolina , South Carolina and Louisiana . Unfortunately, several folks were unable to make it to the Rendezvous because of the record breaking winter storm that hit the East coast. TRR staffer, Dana Alexander, and 4 vets from DC were excited about joining us, but the 4 feet of snow on the roads prevented them from leaving the DC area. We did have 3 vets from the Wounded Warrior Project in Jacksonville , Florida and 3 vets and family from the Tampa TRR join us. All in all, we had 75 of the 100 registered paddlers brave the horrible weather and join us for the weekend.

The weekend began bright and early Friday morning and about 20 hearty souls braved the 40 degree, rainy weather and paddled the Ocklawaha. Despite the dreary day, everyone had a great time and toward the end of the paddle the rain stopped and the Ocklawaha took on a foggy, mysterious feel. Later that evening the river rat volunteer crew prepared a dinner of dogs and burgers and local author/paddler Doug Alderson gave a great presentation about his paddling expedition down the Kissimmee River in central Florida .

While much of Georgia was experiencing frigid temperatures and snow, the rest of the weekend (Saturday, Sunday and Monday) Ocala was sunny and reached into the upper 50’s/lower 60’s during the day. The nights were chilly (into the 30s), but most of the river rats chose to sleep in the heated bunk house.

Saturday and Sunday night we feasted on a catered meal and were entertained by the New Radio Ramblers while weary paddlers warmed up around the fireplace. Each day we awoke to a hot, catered meal and groups would divide up to head toward the various rivers. Everyone commented on what a good time they were having.
 
Camp Kiwanis was a great property and despite some issues with the hot water (which we quickly rectified), it was the perfect venue for the Rendezvous. Every morning at Camp Kiwanis four threatened and rare Sandhill Cranes would hangout along the shore of the small lake and provided a picturesque setting for breakfast.

On Sunday night, we raffled off donated items from Confluence Watersports (mother company of Dagger, Wilderness System, AT Paddlers, Harmony, etc.), Kokotat and Astral. GCA member, Katie O’Neill, was the recipient of an AT touring paddle that is valued at $459.

Besides the Ocklawaha, we paddled the Alexander Springs Creek, Juniper Creek and the Silver River. Truly, the rivers of the Ocala National Forest were the highlight of the trip for most folks. River rats reported seeing eagles, osprey, raccoons, beavers, alligators otters, all sorts of water fowl and of course the monkeys of Silver River . I had the pleasure of paddling with one of the vets, Larry, on the Silver River where we were entertained by monkeys swinging around in the trees. Larry counted 8 alligators on Silver River . I paddled Juniper with the Tampa TRR vets (Dan, Doug and Doug’s wife Deborah) as well as several other folks. As always, Juniper was tropically, breath taking. We had the misfortune of getting in amongst a bunch of kids in rented tandem canoes. I found it amusing to watch the kids struggle with their long boats. Juniper was up because of all the rain and actually had a little rapid.

Steve Cramer and Vincent Payne promptly surfed one of the little waves. The last day of the Rendezvous on Monday morning, I paddled a short out and back paddle on Alexander Springs Creek with Buddy Goolsby, Jean Brown, Jean’s son-in-law Kenneth and four delightful ladies from South Carolina (Nancy, Gail, Susan and Suzanne). We saw a gator that was at least a 14 footer and we ate lunch at the spectacular Alexander Springs . It was a perfect ending to a wonderful weekend of paddling and friendship.

The TRR vets and Wounded Warrior vets had an outstanding time. It was very satisfying to see them so happy and carefree especially knowing what all they had been through. Their presence at the Rendezvous really brought the weekend to home and reminded us of the healing power of paddling. These vets were living proof of the good work of TRR.

We were also honored to have both of Belton’s sons (Eric and Dave Dykes) with us for the weekend. They honored their father’s memory by paddling his beloved boats. Though Belton is no longer with us, his spirit lives on in the campfire stories, colorful memories and a life spent pursuing adventure.

The Rendezvous couldn’t have been done without the hard work and determination of the volunteers (Kate, Karla, Lamar, Buddy, Becca, Jean, Mary, Karen, Lisa, Keith, Hobie, Robert, Gina, Haynes, Jim, Vincent, Kelly, Don, and Dick). Most of these folks are not only friends of Belton, but GCA members and deserve a round of applause for all their efforts. A special thanks goes out to Lamar Phillips because he did most of the lion share of the work, to Don Parker for helping with the sponsorships, to Becca Brown for organizing the entertainment, to Kate Wilkerson for designing the website and t-shirts and Karla Vinnacombe for designing the logo and the river rat signs.
 
It was a long, hard journey to pull off the Rendezvous, but it was worth it to honor and celebrate the life of our friend Belton and to raise funds for such a worthy organization in Team River Runner. I know Belton would be proud!
 
Jamie Higgins
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February 2010

 
Dicks Creek & Middle Fork Broad PDF Print E-mail
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Exploration Trip, March 1, 2009


The Middle Fork of the Broad River bubbles up about seven miles ESE of Clarkesville on the south side of the Eastern Continental Divide traced by Georgia Highway 13 at Dicks Hill, which is also the source of Hazel Creek to the east and the North Fork of the Broad to the southeast. For its first ten miles it drains a densely forested natural area almost entirely within the southeastern corner of the Chattahoochee National Forest and the Lake Russell Wildlife Management Area (LRWMA). To the east it drains Davis, Currahee, Farmer, Allen, and Wells mountains before leaving the national forest, entering Banks County and becoming a more pastoral stream.

I have been dreaming of paddling the Middle Fork of the Broad River since the mid-1970’s and often talked about it with the GCA’s first Exploration Chairman, Gary DeBacher. He walked the entire section we paddled in the 1970’s and wrote an exploration trip report for the November, 1976 Eddy Line about a 4 mile section of the river, A to B in Welander’sA Canoeing & Kayaking Guide to Georgia, 40 miles downstream of the headwaters streams we paddled this day.

Our trip was billed in The Eddy Line as a Class 2-4 “Exploration Wildcard,” meaning we would paddle a stream “not yet written up in any guide book” or on the AW website. There is no river gauge anywhere near the LRWMA, but we figured it had rained at least 2 inches there since Friday night, so our intrepid crew (open boaters Kevin McInturff, Liph Johnson and I) set out to paddle the headwaters of the Middle Fork of the Broad despite forecasts of heavy rain, strong winds and snow.

Kevin had paddled the Middle Fork a few years ago with Jim Gerwer and Chuck Wilburn from the Brown Bottoms bridge, but we decided this day to put in near the head of the Broad River Trail at the FS87 bridge and also paddle 1.2 miles on Dicks Creek before it joins the Middle Fork a quarter of a mile downstream of Brown Bottoms. Dicks Creek is 15 to 30 feet wide here and drops at a rate of 100 feet per mile, mostly in tight Class 1 and 2 drops.

We also found two sliding falls, both of which tempted us but had wood in them. We portaged both easily along the Board River Trail, which hugs the left bank. The first drops about 12 feet and threatened to be a boat basher. The second, a Class 5 which plummets about 40 feet on a 35-40 degree angle, sports a pretty clean line along its left side. My alibis involved my using a 16 foot, borrowed Boy Scout canoe with no floatation, the in-stream wood (which we could have cut out in about 10 minutes) and the horrendous weather. Yes, the weatherman was right: it rained about an inch and a half, with occasional wind-blown snow, during the three and a half hours we were paddling.

We also had to pull over 2 deadfalls on the creek (and one on the river), but in just over an hour we paddled Dicks Creek and reached the Middle Fork, which more than doubled the flow. Below here the river widened to 30-50 feet and the rapids eased up. However, we still found frequent Class 1 and 2 rapids and a lively 25 foot per mile gradient in the next 3.3 miles to the bridge at Farmer Bottoms. As the river was rising rapidly, we enjoyed many good play spots.

Kevin promised that there was a long, fun Class 3 about a mile past the bridge at Farmer Bottoms, so we decided to eschew the easy takeouts at the bridge and along FS92 on river left during the next three quarters of a mile. Instead we paddled another 1.2 miles to a river left trail just after this rapid.

The Lake Russell topo shows about 60 feet of drop in this 1.2 mile stretch. However, we discovered that 35-40 feet of this gradient is consumed by Kevin’s “fun class 3 rapid.” Moreover, with three and a half inches of recent rainfall we paddled, without scouting, into a heart-stopping, LONG, continuous series of twisting, Class 4 slides, punctuated with several eye-popping holes and large curlers.

I was feeling pretty proud and thankful to have made it unscathed to the right side eddy at the bottom. I had been surprised by the size and power of the rapid we had just run, which I assumed we had completed. So I didn't worry too much about the horizon line in front of me as I pulled back into the current. As far as I could see was another twisting humongous drop, very similar to what we had just survived!

We all made it to the bottom, smiling from ear to ear! Our exhilaration helped to generate the adrenalin needed for the steep path up to the road, similar to the hike out at Woodall but with and additional third of a mile carry along the rough road to FS193.

We paddled a total of 5.7 miles dropping 260 feet in this beautiful natural area through mature, second-growth forest. Despite the horrendous weather, we had a great trip.

The three of us are already talking about soon putting in a Farmer Bottoms and exploring some of the Middle Fork downstream of our takeout. We know that the river soon leaves the national forest and plummets over a steep, possibly runable falls, perhaps 40 feet high, into a small reservoir less than a mile after our takeout. What else awaits us?

Directions: The Ayersville and Lake Russell USGS topographical maps will be helpful in planning a trip on Dicks Creek and the Middle Fork of the Broad in the Lake Russell


Wildlife Management Area. During hunting season, August 14 through the end of February, one may only drive into the RLWMA from the north, by the Game Checking Station on Guard Camp Road (FS87). At other times one can also use Forest Services roads 193, 191, and 92 (both east and west ends) to enter the LRWMA, a good road map of which can be found at http://www.georgiaoutdoors.com/hunting/WMAmaps/LakeRussellWMA.pdf.

To enter the LRWMA past the Game Check Station from Atlanta, take I-85 and I-985, which becomes State Highway 365 just past Gainesville. Enter Habersham County, pass Highway 197 and stay on Highway 365 towards Toccoa by bearing right just before the light at the Tom Arrendale Interchange southeast of Clarkesville.

Enter Stephens County and about a mile past the Southern Railroad crossing turn right onto Quarry Road. It will end in less than a mile on old Hwy. 13 (Dicks Hill Parkway). Turn right and in about two-thirds of a mile turn left onto Ayersville Road (Patterson Milliken Rd. on some maps). After about a mile Guard Camp Road (FS87) turns left and is well marked. A couple of miles after you pass the Game Checking Station Browns Bottom Road (FS 92B) turns right.

For those who do not want to run Dicks Creek, you can put in on the Middle Fork at the bridge about a mile and a quarter down this road at Browns Bottoms. If you continue straight two tenths of a mile on Guard Camp Road you will reach the Dicks Creek bridge, our put-in. A couple of hundreds of yards past this bridge is the head of the Broad River Trail, which hugs the left bank of Dicks Creek all the way to the Middle Fork and then follows the river for another 3 miles to the bridge at Farmer Bottoms (FS92). To reach our takeout, drive south on FS87 four or five miles more till it ends at FS92.

If you were to turn right (west) here onto FS92 (Red Root Road) you would encounter the Farmer Bottoms bridge over the Middle Fork in about fifty yards. To access our takeout continue straight (south) on what is now FS92 (Kimbrell Creek Road), which stays close to the river left bank for about three quarters of a mile and provides several easy takeouts for those not wanting to run the last Class 3-4 rapid.

Shortly after it leaves the river, FS92 turns left (east) but you continue straight(south)on FS193(Post Oak Corner Road) for another half mile. Shortly after fording a small stream a rough road turns right. High-clearance 4WD vehicles might try this road to get closer to the takeout, but it was blocked by felled trees this day and we had to park here and carry out the full four tenths of a mile to FS193.

by Roger Nott
From The Eddy Line, June, 2009


 
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