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Three Day Trips in the Okefinokee |
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No,
The Hawk did not misspell the place y'all know as "Okefenokee".
He did his homework and discovered that the historically correct
spelling is "Okefinokee". The name Okefinokee was derived
from the Creek O-ke-fin-ocau and was used beginning with George
White's 1849 Statistics of Georgia. In the early 20th Century the
United States Geographical Board (part of our government bureaucracy)
decreed the spelling would be Okefenokee.
Okefinokee
is the largest swamp in North America, occupying about 700 square
miles and draining a 1,400 square mile watershed. Okefinokee is
clearly visible in satellite imagery because it occupies a high,
sandy basin in southern Georgia, which acts as an extensive shallow
wetland catch basin. Okefinokee has quite different habitats, which
vary from extensive canopied forests (pond cypress, loblolly bay,
black gum, and red maple), to sprawling emergent shrub communities
(hurrah bush, titi, poorman's soap), to prairies (shallow marshes or
wetland meadows with hydrophytic plants), and finally to extensive
lakes. These habitats provide homes to beacoup animal species.
You'll
immediately see alligators, raccoons, and birds. It takes a bit more
work to find otter, mink, beaver, black bear and bobcat. If you're
really up for it, see if you can catalog the 14 different species of
turtles representing five different families. In summary, Okefinokee
is as unique to the world as the Grand Canyon and is a mandatory trip
for any paddler.
The
Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge encompasses 400,000 acres with
110 miles of canoe trails. Canoe camping provides the ultimate
Okefinokee experience and two to five day trips are possible, if you
score a permit. Permits can be obtained from the Wildlife Refuge
office by calling 912.496.3331 between 07:00 and 10:00, Monday
through Friday, only within two months (calendar) of the date your
trip begins. This can be difficult. If you call at 06:59 no one will
answer and if you call after 07:01 the line will be busy and you
should prepare to hit the redial button as rapidly as possible
(sometimes for more than an hour). However, this permit system works
and if you get one you'll be in complete solitude your entire trip.
The Refuge website day trips allow one to observe a greater ecologic
variety (much more comfortably) than a canoe camping adventure. Most
recently, we went there over Memorial Day, based in Waycross, and
took three quite different day trips.
Kingfisher
Landing through Carter's Prairie.
For
the first day, we decided to explore the northeastern swamp,
launching at Kingfisher Landing. Kingfisher is one of three access
points to the Refuge, basically consists of a parking lot with a boat
ramp, groover, and sign-in log. Use of the refuge requires a park
permit. Either buy it at one of the Visitor Centers (west entrance
Steven Foster, or the east entrance Suwannee Canal Recreation Area).
If you have a Golden Eagle Pass just put it on your dashboard.
The
rangers check regularly and will ticket.
Kingfisher
Landing was the center of peat-mining operations and a mile-long
canal dredged at that time constitutes the first mile or so of trail.
You will find the remains of the railroad and old machinery at the
end of the parking area off to the left. Be sure to check it out. Two
routes (Green and Red Trails) begin at Kingfisher. At the end of the
canal the Green Trail goes south and the Red Trail, which we followed
for about five miles to Double Lakes, goes north. This is one of the
least used areas of the Refuge and we never saw anyone else.
The
northeastern swamp is emergent prairie with scattered lakes and
hammocks. Vegetation primarily comprises shrubbery and the emergent
prairie supports yellow-eyed grasses. For me the most interesting
form of life is made up of large stands of water lily and assorted
carnivorous hooded pitcher plants and sundew in the numerous lakes
and tons of frogs. Numerous hammocks, which I still haven't been able
to land on, are heavily wooded with various hardwoods. Finally, in
the fall and winter it's a good place for birding. You'll find great
egrets, little blue herons, and white ibis.
To
get to Kingfisher Landing, take U.S. Highway 1 south from Waycross
for about 20 miles to Race Pond. The road to the landing (heading
west) is well signed. Another 12 miles or so on Highway 1 will take
you to the Suwannee Canal Recreation Area
Steven
Foster Landing through Floyd's Prairie.
The
second day we put in at Steven Foster State Park (the Refuge's west
entrance) and followed the Red Trail north for five or six miles to
Floyd's Prairie. This is a much more dark and mysterious part of the
park and, reminiscent of Mirkwood Forest, follows the Suwannee River
as it meanders through densely wooded forests of bays, maple, and
cypress. The river traverses one of the most spectacular stands of
mature cypress in the swamp and supports a surfeit of wildlife.
Sure
there are turtles, alligators and otters. But there are also more
rare species such as the bright yellow protonotaria warbler hanging
out by the canal side. This is a very tight paddle, especially in a
22' tandem sea kayak. Unfortunately, it's also the most popular
section of the swamp, so it's impossible to avoid people. Be alert.
Things can get really interesting when negotiating a four-footwide
blind curve simultaneously with a john-boat piloted by a tourist (AKA
idiot).
To
get to Steven Foster, take U.S. 84 west from Waycross to Homerville.
In Homereville, take 441 south to Fargo then 177 up the Suwannee
River to the park.
Chesser
Island. We didn't have time to paddle the third day, so we took
U.S. Highway 1 past Kingfisher down to the Suwannee Canal Recreation
Area where we checked out Swamp Island Drive, the Chesser Island
Homestead, and the boardwalk. The homestead was built by the Chesser
family in 1927 and illustrates how the swampers eked out a living.
Sugar cane, cane syrup, and turpentine comprised the primary cash
crops. Swampers also farmed, kept livestock, hunted, and fished. The
boardwalk winds through about a mile of dense swamp, ends at an
observation tower, and provides an opportunity to see things you
could not get to from your boat.
How
to get there: The drive from Atlanta to Okefinokee takes three or
four hours. Just take I-75 south way past Macon to Tifton. At Tifton
follow US 82 east towards Waycross. At about this time you have to
finalize a pivotal decision concerning your destination. Waycross is
my current favorite and we based from there on this trip. It's at the
northern tip of the Refuge and has numerous hotels, restaurants, and
B&Bs. If you're planning on paddling the eastern section, there
are also hotels in Folkston, which is down US 1 from Waycross. If you
will be limited to the eastern portion (i.e., Steven Foster) stay on
I-75 to Valdosta, then take US 84 to Homerville, which has hotels and
B&Bs. To the best of my knowledge, there are no hotels in Fargo
(although camping is available). Camping and cabins are also
available at Steven Foster State Park (check availability before
leaving).
One
other important tidbit of advice. We did this trip in late May. The
weather was wonderful, not only for paddling but also for yellow
tabanids (AKA horseflies). These puppies are not fun (except for
entomologists like Will). The optimum time to paddle the swamp is
spring and fall. This avoids summer heat/humidity and major insect
densities, and the more extreme winter conditions (when many animals
and plants are dormant). Actually it's the alligators that are
dormant and other critters like otters, wood storks, and ibis are
free to play without fear of becoming alligator food. Also almost
half of the swamp's rainfall occurs during afternoon thunderstorms
June through September.
by
William C. Reeves (The Hawk)
From
The Eddy Line, August 2003 |
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For
the month of July, my monthly Ocoee weekday trip was, in a sense,
RAINED OUT!! The trip was scheduled for Thursday, July 3, and on July
1 Tropical Depression Bill dropped a goodly amount of rain on the
green hills of Tennessee. TVA was spilling at Blue Ridge, and that
plus the run-off put the Ocoee at a pretty high level. But more
importantly, the run-off brought the Tellico up to a really nice
level.
Being
a highly flexible trip coordinator, I began thinking of moving the
trip to the Tellico. The USGS gauge reading got up to over 5 feet on
the night of July 1, and the evening of July 2, it was still at about
3-1/2 feet. I started making phone calls to those who had signed up
for the Ocoee trip and polled them on moving the trip to the Tellico.
Everyone agreed, although a few were skeptical.
The
morning of July 3 found the USGS gauge reading at 2.7, an ideal level
for the middle section of the Tellico. It was still 2.6 when we got
to the put-in, equating to about 600 cfs. Of the original seven who
had signed up for the trip, two had at the last minute opted to go to
Little River Canyon in Alabama, leaving five of us meeting for the
Tellico trip. Of the five, one (who shall remain unnamed) managed to
forget the hatch covers for the Perception saddle in his canoe.
Although he chose not to paddle without the hatch covers, he
graciously volunteered to do our shuttle, and spent a good part of
the day wistfully spectating from the roadway.
So,
how often do you get to run the Tellico at 600 cfs on a weekday with
a bright, sunny sky, temperatures in the 80s and absolutely no
crowds? Actually, several times this year. It's been a really great
year for the Tellico so far, better than any I can remember. The four
lucky boaters were Priscilla Dixey and Jay Cawley in kayaks, and
Michael Houchins and yours truly in open canoes. And shuttle was
provided by, well, you know who you are and so do the other trip
participants....
We
had a very enjoyable run, taking our time, getting in a good bit of
surf and play time, and soaking up the gorgeous scenery. There was no
carnage, and only a couple of rolls at critical times, including one
by yours truly in the open boat. "I've never seen anyone roll
one of those!" was Jay's comment afterwards.
We
stopped and took the short walk to the beautiful waterfall on the
feeder creek on river left below Reeder's Rock. The creek water was
very warm, and standing under the falls it was very pleasant, almost
like a refreshing, invigorating shower. The view of the river looking
back down from the falls on the side creek was almost as breathtaking
as the view of the falls itself.
By
the end of the day, everyone had unanimously agreed that they were
very glad the Ocoee trip had been rained out. Thanks, tropical
depression Bill, for pointing us in the right direction!
by
Allen Hedden
From
The Eddy Line, August 2003 |
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Belton Dykes Memorial River Rat Rendezvous Trip Report |
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By all
accounts, the Rendezvous was a great success! 100 paddlers registered
for the event and we were able to raise $5000 for Team River Runner
(TRR) (www.teamriverrunner.org). Folks came down from as far as Ohio
, New York City , North Carolina , South Carolina and Louisiana .
Unfortunately, several folks were unable to make it to the Rendezvous
because of the record breaking winter storm that hit the East coast.
TRR staffer, Dana Alexander, and 4 vets from DC were excited about
joining us, but the 4 feet of snow on the roads prevented them from
leaving the DC area. We did have 3 vets from the Wounded Warrior
Project in Jacksonville , Florida and 3 vets and family from the
Tampa TRR join us. All in all, we had 75 of the 100 registered
paddlers brave the horrible weather and join us for the weekend.
The
weekend began bright and early Friday morning and about 20 hearty
souls braved the 40 degree, rainy weather and paddled the Ocklawaha.
Despite the dreary day, everyone had a great time and toward the end
of the paddle the rain stopped and the Ocklawaha took on a foggy,
mysterious feel. Later that evening the river rat volunteer crew
prepared a dinner of dogs and burgers and local author/paddler Doug
Alderson gave a great presentation about his paddling expedition down
the Kissimmee River in central Florida .
While much of Georgia
was experiencing frigid temperatures and snow, the rest of the
weekend (Saturday, Sunday and Monday) Ocala was sunny and reached
into the upper 50’s/lower 60’s during the day. The nights were
chilly (into the 30s), but most of the river rats chose to sleep in
the heated bunk house.
Saturday and Sunday night we feasted
on a catered meal and were entertained by the New Radio Ramblers
while weary paddlers warmed up around the fireplace. Each day we
awoke to a hot, catered meal and groups would divide up to head
toward the various rivers. Everyone commented on what a good time
they were having. Camp Kiwanis was a great property and
despite some issues with the hot water (which we quickly rectified),
it was the perfect venue for the Rendezvous. Every morning at Camp
Kiwanis four threatened and rare Sandhill Cranes would hangout along
the shore of the small lake and provided a picturesque setting for
breakfast.
On Sunday night, we raffled off donated items from
Confluence Watersports (mother company of Dagger, Wilderness System,
AT Paddlers, Harmony, etc.), Kokotat and Astral. GCA member, Katie
O’Neill, was the recipient of an AT touring paddle that is valued
at $459.
Besides the Ocklawaha, we paddled the Alexander
Springs Creek, Juniper Creek and the Silver River. Truly, the rivers
of the Ocala National Forest were the highlight of the trip for most
folks. River rats reported seeing eagles, osprey, raccoons, beavers,
alligators otters, all sorts of water fowl and of course the monkeys
of Silver River . I had the pleasure of paddling with one of the
vets, Larry, on the Silver River where we were entertained by monkeys
swinging around in the trees. Larry counted 8 alligators on Silver
River . I paddled Juniper with the Tampa TRR vets (Dan, Doug and
Doug’s wife Deborah) as well as several other folks. As always,
Juniper was tropically, breath taking. We had the misfortune of
getting in amongst a bunch of kids in rented tandem canoes. I found
it amusing to watch the kids struggle with their long boats. Juniper
was up because of all the rain and actually had a little rapid.
Steve Cramer and Vincent Payne promptly surfed one of the
little waves. The last day of the Rendezvous on Monday morning, I
paddled a short out and back paddle on Alexander Springs Creek with
Buddy Goolsby, Jean Brown, Jean’s son-in-law Kenneth and four
delightful ladies from South Carolina (Nancy, Gail, Susan and
Suzanne). We saw a gator that was at least a 14 footer and we ate
lunch at the spectacular Alexander Springs . It was a perfect ending
to a wonderful weekend of paddling and friendship.
The TRR
vets and Wounded Warrior vets had an outstanding time. It was very
satisfying to see them so happy and carefree especially knowing what
all they had been through. Their presence at the Rendezvous really
brought the weekend to home and reminded us of the healing power of
paddling. These vets were living proof of the good work of TRR.
We
were also honored to have both of Belton’s sons (Eric and Dave
Dykes) with us for the weekend. They honored their father’s memory
by paddling his beloved boats. Though Belton is no longer with us,
his spirit lives on in the campfire stories, colorful memories and a
life spent pursuing adventure.
The Rendezvous couldn’t have
been done without the hard work and determination of the volunteers
(Kate, Karla, Lamar, Buddy, Becca, Jean, Mary, Karen, Lisa, Keith,
Hobie, Robert, Gina, Haynes, Jim, Vincent, Kelly, Don, and Dick).
Most of these folks are not only friends of Belton, but GCA members
and deserve a round of applause for all their efforts. A special
thanks goes out to Lamar Phillips because he did most of the lion
share of the work, to Don Parker for helping with the sponsorships,
to Becca Brown for organizing the entertainment, to Kate Wilkerson
for designing the website and t-shirts and Karla Vinnacombe for
designing the logo and the river rat signs. It was a
long, hard journey to pull off the Rendezvous, but it was worth it to
honor and celebrate the life of our friend Belton and to raise funds
for such a worthy organization in Team River Runner. I know Belton
would be proud! Jamie
Higgins
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February 2010 |
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Dicks Creek & Middle Fork Broad |
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Exploration
Trip, March 1, 2009
The
Middle Fork of the Broad River bubbles up about seven miles ESE of
Clarkesville on the south side of the Eastern Continental Divide
traced by Georgia Highway 13 at Dicks Hill, which is also the source
of Hazel Creek to the east and the North Fork of the Broad to the
southeast. For its first ten miles it drains a densely forested
natural area almost entirely within the southeastern corner of the
Chattahoochee National Forest and the Lake Russell Wildlife
Management Area (LRWMA). To the east it drains Davis, Currahee,
Farmer, Allen, and Wells mountains before leaving the national
forest, entering Banks County and becoming a more pastoral stream.
I
have been dreaming of paddling the Middle Fork of the Broad River
since the mid-1970’s and often talked about it with the GCA’s
first Exploration Chairman, Gary DeBacher. He walked the entire
section we paddled in the 1970’s and wrote an exploration trip
report for the November, 1976 Eddy Line about a 4 mile section
of the river, A to B in Welander’sA Canoeing & Kayaking
Guide to Georgia, 40 miles downstream of the headwaters streams
we paddled this day.
Our
trip was billed in The Eddy Line as a Class 2-4 “Exploration
Wildcard,” meaning we would paddle a stream “not yet written up
in any guide book” or on the AW website. There is no river gauge
anywhere near the LRWMA, but we figured it had rained at least 2
inches there since Friday night, so our intrepid crew (open boaters
Kevin McInturff, Liph Johnson and I) set out to paddle the headwaters
of the Middle Fork of the Broad despite forecasts of heavy rain,
strong winds and snow.
Kevin
had paddled the Middle Fork a few years ago with Jim Gerwer and Chuck
Wilburn from the Brown Bottoms bridge, but we decided this day to put
in near the head of the Broad River Trail at the FS87 bridge and also
paddle 1.2 miles on Dicks Creek before it joins the Middle Fork a
quarter of a mile downstream of Brown Bottoms. Dicks Creek is 15 to
30 feet wide here and drops at a rate of 100 feet per mile, mostly in
tight Class 1 and 2 drops.
We
also found two sliding falls, both of which tempted us but had wood
in them. We portaged both easily along the Board River Trail, which
hugs the left bank. The first drops about 12 feet and threatened to
be a boat basher. The second, a Class 5 which plummets about 40 feet
on a 35-40 degree angle, sports a pretty clean line along its left
side. My alibis involved my using a 16 foot, borrowed Boy Scout canoe
with no floatation, the in-stream wood (which we could have cut out
in about 10 minutes) and the horrendous weather. Yes, the weatherman
was right: it rained about an inch and a half, with occasional
wind-blown snow, during the three and a half hours we were paddling.
We
also had to pull over 2 deadfalls on the creek (and one on the
river), but in just over an hour we paddled Dicks Creek and reached
the Middle Fork, which more than doubled the flow. Below here the
river widened to 30-50 feet and the rapids eased up. However, we
still found frequent Class 1 and 2 rapids and a lively 25 foot per
mile gradient in the next 3.3 miles to the bridge at Farmer Bottoms.
As the river was rising rapidly, we enjoyed many good play spots.
Kevin
promised that there was a long, fun Class 3 about a mile past the
bridge at Farmer Bottoms, so we decided to eschew the easy takeouts
at the bridge and along FS92 on river left during the next three
quarters of a mile. Instead we paddled another 1.2 miles to a river
left trail just after this rapid.
The
Lake Russell topo shows about 60 feet of drop in this 1.2 mile
stretch. However, we discovered that 35-40 feet of this gradient is
consumed by Kevin’s “fun class 3 rapid.” Moreover, with three
and a half inches of recent rainfall we paddled, without scouting,
into a heart-stopping, LONG, continuous series of twisting, Class 4
slides, punctuated with several eye-popping holes and large curlers.
I
was feeling pretty proud and thankful to have made it unscathed to
the right side eddy at the bottom. I had been surprised by the size
and power of the rapid we had just run, which I assumed we had
completed. So I didn't worry too much about the horizon line in front
of me as I pulled back into the current. As far as I could see was
another twisting humongous drop, very similar to what we had just
survived!
We
all made it to the bottom, smiling from ear to ear! Our exhilaration
helped to generate the adrenalin needed for the steep path up to the
road, similar to the hike out at Woodall but with and additional
third of a mile carry along the rough road to FS193.
We
paddled a total of 5.7 miles dropping 260 feet in this beautiful
natural area through mature, second-growth forest. Despite the
horrendous weather, we had a great trip.
The
three of us are already talking about soon putting in a Farmer
Bottoms and exploring some of the Middle Fork downstream of our
takeout. We know that the river soon leaves the national forest and
plummets over a steep, possibly runable falls, perhaps 40 feet high,
into a small reservoir less than a mile after our takeout. What else
awaits us?
Directions:
The Ayersville and Lake Russell USGS topographical maps will be
helpful in planning a trip on Dicks Creek and the Middle Fork of the
Broad in the Lake Russell
Wildlife
Management Area. During hunting season, August 14 through the end of
February, one may only drive into the RLWMA from the north, by the
Game Checking Station on Guard Camp Road (FS87). At other times one
can also use Forest Services roads 193, 191, and 92 (both east and
west ends) to enter the LRWMA, a good road map of which can be found
at
http://www.georgiaoutdoors.com/hunting/WMAmaps/LakeRussellWMA.pdf.
To
enter the LRWMA past the Game Check Station from Atlanta, take I-85
and I-985, which becomes State Highway 365 just past Gainesville.
Enter Habersham County, pass Highway 197 and stay on Highway 365
towards Toccoa by bearing right just before the light at the Tom
Arrendale Interchange southeast of Clarkesville.
Enter
Stephens County and about a mile past the Southern Railroad crossing
turn right onto Quarry Road. It will end in less than a mile on old
Hwy. 13 (Dicks Hill Parkway). Turn right and in about two-thirds of a
mile turn left onto Ayersville Road (Patterson Milliken Rd. on some
maps). After about a mile Guard Camp Road (FS87) turns left and is
well marked. A couple of miles after you pass the Game Checking
Station Browns Bottom Road (FS 92B) turns right.
For
those who do not want to run Dicks Creek, you can put in on the
Middle Fork at the bridge about a mile and a quarter down this road
at Browns Bottoms. If you continue straight two tenths of a mile on
Guard Camp Road you will reach the Dicks Creek bridge, our put-in. A
couple of hundreds of yards past this bridge is the head of the Broad
River Trail, which hugs the left bank of Dicks Creek all the way to
the Middle Fork and then follows the river for another 3 miles to the
bridge at Farmer Bottoms (FS92). To reach our takeout, drive south on
FS87 four or five miles more till it ends at FS92.
If
you were to turn right (west) here onto FS92 (Red Root Road) you
would encounter the Farmer Bottoms bridge over the Middle Fork in
about fifty yards. To access our takeout continue straight (south) on
what is now FS92 (Kimbrell Creek Road), which stays close to the
river left bank for about three quarters of a mile and provides
several easy takeouts for those not wanting to run the last Class 3-4
rapid.
Shortly
after it leaves the river, FS92 turns left (east) but you continue
straight(south)on FS193(Post Oak Corner Road) for another half mile.
Shortly after fording a small stream a rough road turns right.
High-clearance 4WD vehicles might try this road to get closer to the
takeout, but it was blocked by felled trees this day and we had to
park here and carry out the full four tenths of a mile to FS193.
by
Roger Nott From The Eddy Line, June, 2009
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